| Patrik Ervell |
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Even though he won the fancy Turner Prize in 1999 and the Caméra d’Or at Cannes earlier this year, I’d never heard of Steve McQueen until I found myself flipping through the photos from Yohji Yamamoto’s latest men’s collection runway show. Perhaps the venerable Japanese designer was following the fashion world’s recent shift towards self-congratulatory open-mindedness (i.e. Vivienne Westwood’s creepy muscle-bear runway model, or Italian Vogue’s much-lauded all-black issue– which was promptly followed by a return to the vanilla status quo), or perhaps Yamamoto simply decided that at the age of 65 he can pretty much do whatever the hell he wants, but in any case, the runway was strutted by a hodgepodge of highly unusual models. Amongst the de facto mop-topped pixies and intimidatingly high-cheekboned youngsters, the audience was treated to a handful of grandfatherly models (including one with a gimp leg) and– in the words of style.com writer Tim Blanks– the “defiantly chunky” British artist Steve McQueen.
I can’t help but think that Yamamoto had some irony in mind when he chose the handsomely robust McQueen as his proxy for a statement on the politics of body size: after all, McQueen’s much-acclaimed debut feature, Hunger, is all about using the human body as a political weapon. Centering on the final weeks in the life of of imprisoned IRA member Bobby Sands, McQueen’s film examines the passion and struggle that fueled the 1981 Irish Hunger Strike. The film has been ruffling a few feathers in the UK over its seemingly sympathetic portrayal of Sands, but McQueen himself refuses to take sides. Confronted by a reporter who baits, “I would argue, [Sands] comes out looking heroic,” McQueen responds, “Not for me … If he’s in a movie, people walk around thinking he’s heroic. It doesn’t matter what he’s doing in the movie, he will be thought of as heroic. That’s the movies. You put anyone in a movie, and people think that person’s heroic.” In fact, Steve McQueen has built a reputation for not taking a position on his own work. 1993’s Bear, the silent short film that put him on the map, depicts a naked wrestling match between two black men (one of whom is McQueen). “Narrative and visual contexts, however, are absent,” wrote David Frankel in ArtForum, “this nude wrestling match has neither origin nor outcome, and happens in seeming darkness. What remains is the play of the men’s feelings - there is smiling and laughter, but also challenge, caution, tension, alarm, and a certain erotic buzz as the sparring goes through its phases.” Pulling the viewer into the film’s all-around ambiguity by forcing them to watch it in a completely darkened gallery room, McQueen doesn’t clarify any of the questions he raises, leaving his audience to construct their own point of view.
McQueen’s unyielding distance from his own work has always stood in stark contrast to the indulgent autobiography of his “Young British Artist” contemporaries like Tracey Emin, who became a press darling when she was shortlisted for the Turner Prize with her hopelessly self-absorbed work “My Bed” in 1999, the year McQueen won. “His victory was greeted by the London Evening Standard with a cover photo of Tracey Emin ‘not winning the Turner Prize.’ McQueen was tucked away on page five,” wrote Iain Aitch on GettingIt.com. McQueen finally found himself in the public spotlight in 2007 with a work which, like Hunger, raises questions about the problematic position of the human body in modern politics. Selected by the semi-governmental Imperial War Museum to act as the nation’s official “War Artist,” McQueen’s resulting piece, Queen and Country, is simply a series of postage stamps depicting 98 armed service members who have died in Iraq. In a time in which images of the war dead have been banned in the media, when governments choose to sweep the idea of these unwanted corpses from an unpopular war under the rug, the UK’s Royal Mail service has quietly refused to turn McQueen’s work into real commemorative stamps– even after an outpouring of public support for the project.
That McQueen has been able to cause such controversy by doing something so benign– something that isn’t explicitly pro-war or anti-war, and might actually honor these casualties– demonstrates the beauty of McQueen’s detached perspective. Placing himself in opposition to the self-centered delusion fostered by micro-blogging, reality television and tabloid minutiae, McQueen steps away from himself and acts as an apolitical provocateur, presenting uncomfortable questions and allowing the audience to take their own positions. Also, he’s adorable! Let’s hope he continues to pursue a career in modeling– I can definitely picture him as the new face of Dior Homme. |
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In the wake of Al Gore’s Oscar win, the importance of environmental consciousness underwent a swift transformation in the arena of public opinion. Suddenly, “going green” had changed from a lame punchline about aging hippies to the hot new trend, quickly emerging as a marketing tool to sell everything from Saturday Night Football to Walmart. I initially feared environmental consciousness would soon be ushered out the door it had flown in, relegated to the trash heap of forgotten cultural movements like pet rocks and Beanie Babies. But the trend seems to be sticking, and there have actually been a lot of positive things to come out of this newly imbued American sense of social responsibility. For instance, convenient and (relatively) affordable applications of solar energy: ![]() The rolled up sheet of flexible solar energy to the left is a Brunton SolarRoll, which for $479 provides 14 watts of energy– enough to re-charge most laptops in a couple of hours, and of course cell phones, digital cameras, iPods and all the rest of those fun portable toys. Also, it’s waterproof– so you can shove it in your pack and take it to the great outdoors, or blog while you’re living on a mountaintop in a tree house (assuming said treehouse is Wi-Fi enabled). The handsome backpack to the right is a Voltaic Solar Bag. At the low price of $199, it comes with 11 different adapters for easy connection to handheld electronics. Supplying you with 4 watts of solar juice, you’ll never need to come home and charge a phone again. And it’s only 2.9 lbs, including the battery and solar panels! Anyone want to get me this totally unnecessary, but absolutely rad bag for Christmas? |
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Marc Jacobs is an American designer who has spent the majority of the past decade establishing a reputation for himself as the hippest, most refreshingly unconventional designer around. From his early work with Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton, to collaborations with Sofia Coppola, to his distinctive Jurgen Teller-shot ads (which have featured every hipster from Chloë Sevigny to Sonic Youth to Winona Ryder)– Marc Jacobs quickly defined himself as one of the only truly cool designers out there. Tom Ford may have the sex appeal, but the world of Marc Jacobs has been marked by depth and refinement, with an ample shot of youthful playfulness. Jacobs is cool because he understands how Lil’ Kim and Cindy Sherman are far more iconic and relevant than Gisele Bundchen or Heidi Klum. ![]() I used to look up to Marc Jacobs as a gay role model. He’s one of our generation’s most prominent and relevant gay artists, and he (used to) refuse to pander to gay cultural conventions in his personal style or behavior. Finally, I thought– a high-profile gay man who’s self-confident enough to not care about waxing and tanning and looking like the archetypal Chelsea Boy. He was famous for his shaggy, bohemian appearance and oversized, bookish glasses. He looked every bit a Wes Anderson character come to life, and that was kind of groundbreaking for a gay celebrity. Marc Jacobs was untouchable. Everything was going peachy, until the Marc Jacobs we knew and loved vanished, replaced by an awful robotic replica. ![]() At least that’s what I figure happened, because I can’t come up with a more valid explanation for the transformation that Jacobs has undergone this last year. Let’s break it down. Spring 2006: Marc Jacobs is on top of his game. For reference, here’s a flattering 6-page article from New York magazine calling him the “coolest, most influential designer”. He declares that awkward is nice, and triumphs nerdiness over de facto sex appeal. Not long after, Jacobs entered his mid-life crisis. He fell in love with a slick-looking young prostitute named Jason Preston, and quickly mutated into some horrible hybrid of avant-garde cool and West Hollywood cool. You can see the transposition of stomach-churning WeHo aesthetics at work in the side-by-side below: ![]() The worst part about this whole sordid transformation is that in the Perez Hilton-dominated blogosphere, Marc’s new persona was deemed an upgrade. It seemed to be the consensus amongst gay bloggers that Jacobs had finally come to his senses and adopted the culture he was destined for all along. One excited South American commenter wrote, “Jesus Christ!!! How can Marc look even better each day?!? We love him down here, in Brasil!!!” ![]() Then, early this year, Jacobs checked himself into rehab. For a moment, there was hope. Maybe, I thought, they’ll hit him on the head with a frying pan and reverse the traumatic spell that he’s been under lately– this whole thing could be a terrible Meth side effect they don’t warn you about in school! Much to my dismay, Jacobs came out of rehab looking even less recognizable than when he went in. Soon, he was posing on the cover of Out magazine, showing off those gross abdominal lines that every gay porn star/2xist model constantly uses to rape gay culture. ![]() He had his big spring show for the Marc line a couple weeks ago, and it seemed to reflect the schizophrenic schism that must be tearing the designer apart inside. Many of the looks were hybrids of two pieces sewn together down the middle, like some juvenile Project Runway competition. Most of the clothes weren’t even cute on a conceptual level. And I won’t even get into those fucked up heels he made for the Marc Jacobs line. I guess my point here is: Is Marc Jacobs a real life Two-Face, straddling the line between his formerly hip, intelligent self, and the hegemonic West Hollywood world that Jason Preston/meth/mid-life crisis/The Illuminati/Scientology is pulling him towards?! And if so, is there anything that can take him back from that hideous place? Or is Marc Jacobs gone for good? |
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After eating an insanely delicious scoop of Vanilla Berry Swirl at Pazzo Gelato today, I stopped in next door at Undefeated, the fancy Silver Lake shoe store. I didn’t expect to actually buy anything, because their stuff is, well, fancy– and I can’t afford fancy at the moment. But then I came across the above pictured ultra-neon blue shoes. Maybe neon is played out, and maybe posting on your blog about clothing purchases is like, the worst kind of conspicuous consumption– but I don’t care– I’m in love with these crazy Nikes. And they were 50% off! How could I refuse? |
It probably seems like I’ve gone t-shirt crazy, but I couldn’t resist posting about the brand new t-shirt (pictured above, text not included) that Ariel Pink is selling. Entitled ‘Bring me the head of Ariel Pink!’, this “Decapitated Pink t-shirt” is for “lovers and haters alike.” It’s designed by Jason Yates, who makes amazing hand-drawn fliers for shows, like this one for an Animal Collective/Ariel Pink show. Each shirt in the very limited run is unique, with a different hand-drawn hair color. Sequins, beads, and buttons are sewn on by hand to create the blood droplets. You can buy it on Pink’s myspace page (for $40) before they disappear. |
I don’t care how fugly he is– I think Teki Latex is a total fox. Most known for his work with French hip-hop/electronic group TTC, Teki just released his own album, Party De Plaisir. The song from the above video, “Les Matins de Paris” is so catchy, you might just buy the 7″, and then not even file it under “Eurotrash” (don’t try to front– you know you’ve still got those Vengaboys, Alice Deejay, and Aqua records filed away somewhere). The song features vocals from Lio, the Belgian pop icon of the 1980s (and occasional Chantal Akerman muse). Another track on the album includes hardcore French rap from Feist’s alter-ego– Bitch Lap Lap. ![]() Teki’s got some jacked-up teeth and kind of a downs-y looking face, but that doesn’t stop him from being pretty sexy. Plus, he even helps designs t-shirts! The nifty-looking t-shirt pictured above fits with the art concept of his whole album– namely, very bright colors. Check out this weird video in which a bubbly, borderline abrasive Teki discusses the album, and reveals the dimly lit attic in which an “army” of zoned-out teenagers promote his music on Myspace and Facebook. |
Everyone knows that the Japanese are more advanced than Americans in many ways, including (but not limited to) technology, animation, cleanliness, television and fashion. These are indisputable facts that you can look up in the Guinness Book of World Records. So now that you understand that much, you can start to covet their mad style. My buddy Bob’s blog, Kitsune Noir, turned my attention towards the Japanese online shop Beams T. Their collection of T-Shirts is vast and highly refined. If I had a ridiculous amount of money, I would throw down Â¥5,800 one of these rad t-shirts. But I don’t, so let’s do some make-believe shopping. Check them out my new wardrobe after the jump! |
The other day I got bored and looked at every designer’s fall 2007 collection included on Condé Nast’s informative men’s fashion website, men.style.com. Like its corporate brothers GQ and Details, the style recommendations on that site are often tasteless– or at least boring, catered more towards the 40-something international playboy set than the young men out there who care less about brand name and more about a unique perspective. But luckily, the site provides a reasonably comprehensive database of top designers’ collections, providing users with the ability to make their own style decisions without the filter of a photo editorial on yachting essentials. The thee pictures above are from the runway shows for Trovata, Lacoste, and Missoni, respectively. They were three of my favorites from this season, because almost everyone else seems to be putting out lines of all gray and black clothing, which is yawn central. It’s fine to indulge in drab monochromatics every once in a while, but it seems way overdone this season. Trovata’s line in particular tickled my pickle, because its stated source of inspiration was a “fictional 28-year-old private-school teacher in Manhattan in 1981,” a theme that reminded me of The Squid and the Whale and The Royal Tenenbaums. continue reading |












































